Mount Baima to Deqin
ALTITUDE – 3700m/12129ft
Overview
Baima Xue Shan
Feilai Temple
Meili Xue Shan
Trekking
Weather
Access
Mt. Baima to Deqin Gallery
Associated Locations
Overview
Quite simply, the view from Deqin across the Lantsang River Valley towards Meili Xue Shan is one of the finest in China. There are not many places where you can get such a majestic view of such massive mountains from the comfort of a restaurant deck while drinking a cup of fresh brewed Yunnan coffee. The journey up here passes through some truly remarkable scenery, and the only downside is you will always feel you should have had more time here.
Baima Xue Shan
After leaving Benzilan, the road climbs through arid mountain scenery, passing a secluded monastery on the way. You enter forested valleys, climbing onwards. Glimpses of high peaks begin to tease you through the trees. Then, crossing a shallow river, the road climbs higher, through the top of the tree line and swings to the north west.
Eventually, you enter the Baima Xue Shan National Forest Park and are exposed to some simply staggering views of the huge peaks all around you. The road meanders up to over 4500m and for the first time you can experience some of the purest air on earth.
For the adventurous, camping in these valleys can be a wonderful experience; total solitude, true wilderness. Otherwise, the road leads on towards Deqin and another wonderful view.
Feilai Temple
The actual town of Deqin is not a great place, it is hidden in a very narrow valley surrounded by huge peaks and only in mid summer does the sun seem to get into it. Subsequently, it has a damp, grim feel to it, and we wont be stopping here.
Instead, we bypass the town, and make our way a further 10km or so around the mountain to the Failai Temple area. It has undergone some serious development in the last few years, and what used to be a wild and forgotten corner of Yunnan has become a popular destination.
The food and accommodation have improved considerably though, and you can now get a room with heating, whereas before, a visit here was a recipe for a guaranteed cold night.
There are some very pleasant walks through the Juniper forests here, but the altitude will moderate most peoples enthusiasm for protracted exploration. Instead, it can be nice to sit and drink hot tea while taking in the staggering views.
Meili Xue Shan
At over 6000m/20000ft the elegant peak across the valley is a beautiful site, whether silhouetted against the setting sun, or lit up with Alpenglow at sunrise, the view is sure to be a highlight of your trip to this area. The range of peaks before your eyes form the geographical boundary with Tibet.
The peak is sacred to the Tibetan people and it is forbidden to climb it. There was a disastrous Japanese attempt that killed the majority of the party, the summit is closed.
Trekking
There are many multi-day trekking options from here catering for most peoples ability. However, proper mountain gear is essential, as is comprehensive travel insurance. You’re a long way from anywhere up here and it’s a 10 hour drive to the nearest airport.
Weather
Oddly, due to its more southerly aspect, the weather here is slightly more moderate than in Zhongdian, despite the higher altitude. The deep valleys that run north to south along the frontier act as funnels for the moist monsoon air from the south. Deep in these valleys leeches haunt the forests in summer, remarkable for such an alpine habitat.
For much of the summer, from June to September, views of the mountains are sporadic and are not guaranteed. Thick monsoon clouds flood the high passes. My preferred time to visit is from late October through the winter to April, when the cold air at night offers some of the best night photography conditions available.
The days are still sunny and quite warm in the sun, only once you venture indoors or into the shadows does the cold bite.
Access
Deqin lies on the main road to Tibet from Zhongdian and is a major trade route for trucks over the high pass towards Lhasa. The road has undergone serious improvement in the last few years, and is a more pleasant journey for it. The whole route from Zhondian can be done in a day as long as you don’t mind pushing on, but I feel it is better to take a little more liesure and stop on the way in Benzilan. The distances are not great, and you could reach Deqin in about 4 hours from Benzilan.
In winter, snow lies on the high valleys and occasional delays can be encountered until the trucks clear the way again. The route from Benzilan to Deqin is a high altitude experience, and one to be savoured.
