3 – Basque: The Ocean

Areatza to Sopelana.

Sunrise comes late – around 08:10. I am awake by 7am and open the window to let the chill air caress me. The faintest blush of pink in the sky, a soft wind allowing the drying leaves to chatter away to themselves as they too await the sun.

A Robin sings from a old snag to my left – a sweet jumble of notes full of excitement and comedy. I stand there and listen to him, reflecting on what he’s singing about? This is my turf, this is my lady, keep out and keep your wings off!

I smile as I consider this – how our own lives can mimic nature so closely – all our bravado and stone walls – V8 engines and leather.

The growing dawn promises another fine day, and we don’t linger long after our high carb breakfast of croissants and coffee. A short drive through Bilbao’s commuter traffic and we are into coastal suburbia – Sopelana, a seemingly new town of clean apartments, promenades and roundabouts. We find our delightful hotel – the Modus Vivendi and set off beach hopping.

Its a scorcher of a day, 33C (91F) – blue sky and Sunday beach-lovers. We descend a steep path to our first and notice quickly that most of the bathers are naked – very naked. Juanli and I feel a little overdressed, but meander our way past wobbly bottoms and waggling dangles! We find a secluded little corner and sit watching the waves, our view of the meat briefly obscured. But there, on yonder horizon, a tanned adonis standing perched on a surf board holding a paddle.

He sales past us, riding the tides, pert buttocks and muscles gleaming in the sun! Or so Juanli tells me.

I briefly consider letting the little Scotsman our for some air, but decide against it – Spain isn’t ready yet for the highland warrior!

We stagger back through the tangle of bodies, not sure where to look as a slim girl spreads her legs to stretch – oh my! Morning vicar!

Of course, as a serious photographer, my mind is on scouting out locations for that night. Mindful of the tides, 7 day old moon etc. After a couple of hours of driving around, we settle on a spot and head back to the hotel for a siesta.

We spend Sunday evening at another beach – Azkorri, arriving an hour before sun down, and the beach still alive with day-trippers. More guys walk by, sausages swinging; a portly gent, legs wide, tackle out, chats to his grey-haired spouse.

The warm evening air, the ambience, the waves, the dogs playing in the surf – all wonderful and truly set the scene for our night shot. As the light fades from sunlight to afterglow and then moonlight, the people leave and Juanli and I are alone with our clothes on.

I take exposures in the fading light, then at 21:00 begin a series of 2 minute exposures that continue until 22:20.

At University, my mates and I had a saying – “Eat, drink and be merry – for tomorrow, more of the same and we need the practice.”

And that’s how it is now – Sleep, eat, scout, laugh, shoot, repeat. Monday evening finds us perched high on a cliff looking north across the brilliant San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (say that three times quickly!) The beautiful island topped by a 10th century chapel dedicated to John the Baptist. I see an opportunity to juxtapose the religious and scientific between the chapel and the swirling vortex of stars around Polaris that is almost perfectly lined up with the island. And that’s what we did between 19:10 and 22:10.

The sand in our Spain-shaped timer has nearly run out; the days are sweet though, and fond memories are vying for attention in our minds.

Next Episode – Bilbao to Hong Kong.