Benzilan to Mount Baima
ALTITUDE – 2100m/6889ft
Overview
Bend of the Jin Sha River
Weather
Access
Benzilan Gallery
Associated Locations
Overview
They say the point of the journey is not to arrive, and it is small towns like Benzilan that prove this to be true. A dot on the map, in the middle of nowhere, and somewhere that the bus between Zhongdian and Deqen stops for lunch. But in many ways Benzilan is an oasis, over a 1000m lower than Zhongdian and 1600m lower than Deqen, the town offers a great place to rest, sleep and enjoy a completely different climatic zone.
Lying on the banks of the Jin Sha River and surrounded by massive cliffs, the town is a sun trap and it can feel very hot after the higher altitude zones before and to follow.
I enjoy my time in Benzilan, there is a wholesome feel to the place, and during short walks through the back streets it is enough to just take in the day to day life of this remote corner of Yunnan.
Bend of the Jin Sha River
A few years ago to reach this view involved a precarious climb down a steep and fragile slope. Now, as the area comes under the scrutiny of the financiers who see opportunity in tourism, there is a funky viewing platform and you pay to get in. Such is progress, but equally, it’s now a lot safer.
The view is however spectacular, the Jin Sha River making a sweeping arc around a rocky headland. Depending on the season, the color of the river changes, from muddy brown, full of soil in the late autumn, to crystal glacier blue in the spring.
This is a must stop spot on the road to Deqen.
Weather
The drop in altitude changes the climate completely, the temperatures climb and the extreme cold of a Shangri La winter are less severe. The summers are hot and humid with more frequent rain, although there is a slight rain shadow here from the mountains that climb to over 5000m nearby.
Access
Just getting to Benzilan is a wonderful experience. The road from Zhongdian climbs up through forests, with high peaks to the west, usually capped in snow all year. Then, after passing through alpine farmland dotted with traditional stone homes, you come to a Tibetan Stuppa with a stunning view. Below you, the river valley weaves through the gorges some 1500m below you. On a clear day, glaciated Himalayan peaks can be seen in the northwest.
The whole area is just stunning. But then, you wind your way down the narrow road, huge chasms on your left all the way until you enter another little secret gully. Large family houses line the road, tree-lined and a gushing stream giggles its way down.
It is not too far from Zhongdian, only about 80km or so, but the road is windy and best taken slow. I usually allow 3 hours for this section, more if we plan to spend the night in Benzilan.
